We are currently enjoying a rest day in Ushguli, after 3 days of climbing. From Batumi we followed a very busy road alongside the Black Sea until we veered inland, towards the mountainous Svaneti region. From the small town of Jvari onwards we climbed about 3000m in 4 days time to one of the remotest and the highest inhabited places of Europe.
Ushguli lies alongside a muddy and rocky track at 2100m altitude, some 45km from Mestia, the nearest town. Whether Georgia is still Europe is up for debate but the Georgians sure want to be part of the EU. From our little campsite we are looking up at the highest mountain of Europe; the Xsara is 5062m high. Another unique feature of Ushguli and the Svaneti region are the towers. Between the 9th and the 13th centuries every family here built it´s own high guard tower with a house attached and surrounded by a wall, to protect themselves from marauders. Or from eachother, as blood feud is a tradition here that is only slowly disappearing. Some 175 towers are still standing in the valley of the river Enguri, surrounded by wooded mountainslopes and snowcapped peaks. Until the town of Mestia got a small airport the very difficult road was the only way to get here, and only in the summer season. The Svan people have a very strongly preserved own cultural identity and their own oral language that separated from the Georgian Kartuli some 5000 years ago. The region feels wild and mysterious, in no small part because it is so hard to get here. Today we took a walk around the village and it looks like nothing much has changed in the last 1000 years, apart from small groups of tourists arriving by jeep tour, hiking, or by bicycle of course.
Cycling in Georgia
The cycling has been very interesting lately. From Poti onwards we were followed by a police car. This apparently happens more often as we´ve read about this involuntary escort on other cycling blogs. The police wanted us to stay in a hotel (´is safe! Camping not safe!´) but in the end they let us stay next to the police station, which wasn´t so bad since we got to enjoy their hot shower. We made friends with a couple of locals but the police chased them away, which made for a very awkward and somewhat sad situation. We enjoyed hanging out with the locals and I´m sure nothing much happens in the village to entertain them. They were very sweet and bought us food. I´m quite sure they were the bad boys of the village but we never felt threatened, until the police made a point of chasing them away like a pack of stray dogs. Not nice.
The day after we managed to shake off the police around lunchtime, when our escort followed two German cyclists who we cycled together with. We waited a bit longer to get back on the bike and were never joined by a new police car. In the late afternoon another police car got sight of us and prepared to turn around for the obligatory escort, quick flash of their lights and a short blast of the siren to get our attention. We didn´t want to spend another night next to a police station so we asked the first guy we saw sitting next to the road if we could camp in his garden, which he happily accepted after a second of surprise. The police never found us and we had a lovely night camping behind Iridio´s old wooden farmhouse on stumps. Iridio brought out the home distilled fruit schnapps and many toasts to Sakartvelo, friendship, family and love were made. Good times.
From here on we started to climb out of the flatlands and into Svaneti. In two days we climbed to the town of Mestia, enjoying one more night of camping next to a little road side restaurant where the owners Nino and Bairon sang traditional Svaneti songs for us. The road to Mestia is very good and spectacularly beautiful; a roaring wild river cutting through a steep valley, no traffic, only a few villlages. After Mestia things got serious; a small pass took us to 1900m, then straight down to the village of Bogreshi in a narrow valley. Just past the village is an abandoned Svan tower where we spent the night cosily inside, on the first floor with a window overlooking the road and the valley. A wonderful experience, the most beautiful camping spot we have encountered so far.
From the descent of the 1900m pass the road turned into a difficult mud track which we enjoyed immensely. We have been very lucky with the weather so the track was doable, not too rutted and dusty, not too sticky-muddy. Climbing to the 2160m altitude of Ushguli took us through canyons and gorges and a couple of tiny little village with more Svan towers. Every corner of the track is hard work but so breathtakingly beautiful.
We discovered two special museums. The Svaneti museum in Mestia holds an incredible collection of local religious and household artefacts. The only thing I found strange was the signs speak of the objects in the past tense, when it is clear this culture has not disappeared just yet. The small and austere churches here hold incredible historical artefacts, gifted to them through the ages and kept. I am not sure if these things belong in a museum when the culture is still alive and in practice and the objects still in use.
Another precious place was the ´museum´ of Ushguli. It is the house of Zoar, built by his parents in 1939. The interior is decorated with communist symbols; plaster hammer and sickles on the wall, a star on the ceiling. There are stuffed animals, antique mountaineering equipment, tradtional Svaneti hats. Zoar plays songs for us and talks about his days past as a mountaineer.
Today in Ushguli we are hanging out with a couple of French cyclists and gathering courage for the short but steep climb along the dirt track to the 2600m pass tomorrow. There was a thunderstorm last night with some heavy rain so we hope the track is not too muddy. In the worst case scenario we will have to push our bikes up the 8,5km to the pass. After that a slow descent along the dirt road towards Lentekhi, and onwards to Tblise where we will spend a week, trying to get our Chinese visum and enjoying old town city life. For now we are loving the wild outdoors.
6 thoughts on “Svaneti”
Zoar will never be out of my head again. Never! ?
So far out of what would be my comfort zone culturally.
Amazing slice of life
So lucky to have it shared with me -thankyou Brave Hearts two!
Georgia somehow ‘sounds’ like my next cycling destination. Wish I could join you right away!
Tnx for sharing – G on mind!
Hi team Oufti,
Met you guys in Batumi (near the beach) and read your blog while back here in NL, such a nice writing!
I must inform you that your postcard has been left on a fridge in Bordjomi with my lovely homestay landlord Temuri. He laughed so hard at the look of your costumes that I could not do anything other than leave the card for him. So don’t be surprised if you find yourselves hanging on a fridge in Bordjomi :).
Regards, Bart van Kranenburg
ola ola hoe is het daar? snel berichtje om te laten weten dat ik een hele mooie kaart heb mogen ontvangen ;^))) bedankt!
…yes, the stories keep me survive these summer days at the office guys!
enjoying your adventures!